Tribstep
19 May 2012
Palate Palette
Yoga instructor and bellydancer Nanci Traynor is chucking out all her stuff, taking her husband, her dog and two backpacks, and moving to Bulgaria.
As well as being a performer and a dedicated teacher, Nanci is a seeker. Her peregrinations have taken her to India and Western China, and now lead her onwards to Eastern Europe. It’s not strange that she’s decided to move on; it’s surprising that she stayed here as long as she did.
Nanci arrived in KL five years ago, to work for the short-lived and spectacularly mismanaged Yogazone. When Yogazone went belly up, she and her now husband Bill were, in her words, ‘stranded’. Without money or friends, they slowly began to eke out an existence for themselves, and eventually a niche in the cultural consciousness of Kuala Lumpur.
Nanci’s contribution to this country: American Tribal Style belly dance, or ATS. There may have been those in KL who did it before, but never anyone with such devil-may-care attitude. And now, after many workshops and theatrical performances, many more Wednesday-night Ink + Drink gigs, and umpteen yoga classes, on Saturday night Nanci gave her final Kuala Lumpur performance at Palate Palette, to a small but appreciative crowd.
The performance began and ended with an incense circle, blessing (or fumigating) the space and the assembled guests. In between, Nanci and her protege Nikki Law as well as visiting ATS dancer Beatrice Flowers, performed mostly solos, occasionally accompanied by the music and video projection by DJ French Chris.
Looking around the room at Nanci’s final performance, I see many of the audience are expatriates. Nanci says most in her yoga classes are too, and this may be part of the reason that she is leaving. Mainstream Malaysia has not taken her to their hearts, but being accepted has never been the point, either of Nanci’s performances or of her life. How, then, are we meant to enjoy this art?
With ATS, as with any style of bellydancing, and indeed any kind of dance, there are various inroads to appreciation. You can sit back and enjoy the vast tracts of female flesh on display, and the equally vast tattoos ornamenting that flesh. You can admire the skillful isolation of the hip juts, the physical control involved in the belly rolls and shimmies, and the supple flexibility of the arching backs. You can catch the subtle cues with which the improvising dancers communicate with each other, amidst the array of jingling coins, fringed shawls and outrageous feathered false eyelashes.
ATS, though, is more than a visual spectacle, it is the performance of a cultural meme. ATS speaks of a wistful nostalgia for an imagined ancient past — of moon goddesses and earth mothers, shaman queens flinging their hair in crazed rites around bonfires, fecund bodies shingled with coins stamping out a blood rhythmn in the shadows of mountains.
If you feel distrustful of this narrative’s authenticity, you are not alone. What can be verified about the history of bellydancing is that it is a substantially American invention, faintly inspired by Middle Eastern dancers who performed at the Chicago World Fair in the 1890s, and subsequently bolstered with whatever exoticisms came conveniently to hand. That this dance form was then re-exported to the Middle East, where it now comprises the staple fodder for tourists on cruise ships going up and down the Nile, is one of the richer ironies of dance history.
American Tribal Style, which arose in the alternative neighbourhoods of California in the 1970s, affects to return bellydancing to its roots, to hark back beyond fake tans and flourescent harem pants to dance as it was practiced by women in the nomadic tribal societies of Northern Africa, the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Central Asia. ATS is not exempt from charges of Orientalist eclecticism, but it wears its heart on its sleeve, or at least, it’s all there in the name: Native Americans aside, the idea of an American Tribe is of course a desired, imagined and constructed one, but its construction makes it no less real or potent.
The existence of ATS, like the New Age culture in which it was nurtured, points to the social need, the feeling of spiritual vaccum, that engendered it. The increasing popularity of bellydancing indicates a similar physical vaccum. In Asia and America, women have flocked to bellydance to (re)connect with their sexuality, their inner beauty, and their mystical feminine strength.
Nanci Traynor, though, goes beyond being a symbol of spiritual guidance and reaffirming womanhood. She stands for the path we are not brave enough to take. She once lived like an ascetic in India, and now, again eschewing material possessions, she is heading to Bulgaria to take solace in the mountains like a hermit with her head in the clouds. And even while she is amongst us she is a figurehead for rebellion — not a politicised, revolutionary or anarchical kind of rebellion, but an aesthetic rebellion, visually signed by her tattoos, her bi-coloured hair, her feral in-your-face exhibitionism. As a colleague at the performance observes, Nanci made as many enemies during her time in Malaysia as she did friends. I’m not surprised. She does not mean for herself to be easy to take.
Nanci is here to perform the gypsy. Not the historically and culturally situated Roma people of Eastern Europe with their specific customs and genealogies, but the gypsy as stereotype, or, more specifically, as Western cultural archetype: nomadic, exotic, equipped with mystical fore-knowledge, and a special connection to fire, blood, earth and song. Her personal website is titled ‘Nanci Traynor Dances Rebellion’. She walks the talk; her bio at Lightworks, where she has been teaching yoga, comments, “She is one of the few teachers who lives by their ethics.”
And Nanci, like the gypsy, is feared. She represents an anti-civilisation to us cultural descendants of sedentary agriculturalists. Gypsies of lore were reputed to steal not just horses and gold, but hearts and lives. Babies were spirited out of windows. Young girls eloped with dark-eyed Lotharios. Not for nothing was there the childhood skipping tune:
My mother said I never should
Play with the Gypsies in the wood
If I did, she would say,
“Naughty girl to disobey;
Your hair shan’t curl, your shoes shan’t shine,
You Gypsy girl, you shan’t be mine.”
Nanci’s is a deliberately ostentatious alterity, but, oh, how she enjoys it! In her final KL performance, she spins around the room, hair flying in circles, a perfectly orchestrated image of wild abandon. She climbs up onto a sofa between bemused patrons, and hisses and spits at her dance partner from her perch. She writhes against a wall in the midst of DJ French Chris’ video projection of two white wings beating. She is meant to be a dove, but she performs like a demon, teeth bared, with flexed feet and claws.
For her final item, she chose the Johnny Cash song ‘Hurt’ (with its references to drug abuse and self-annihilation) as interpreted by Nine Inch Nails’ Trent Reznor (no stranger himself to drug abuse and self-annihilation). Nanci’s rage — bare palms slapping on the concrete floor, aggressive ‘fuck you!’ gestures — is epic. But truly she is raging against the machine: her performance cannot quite drown out the bourgeois chatter and laughter coming from the bar. It seems those people are not watching or listening. And that, I suppose, is why Nanci is leaving.
She leaves behind at least one protege, Nikki Law, who has been dancing with Nanci for several years. Nikki is a confident and very skilled performer, especially evident in her improvisation on Saturday evening to musician Azrin’s playing of the ukelele. Nikki has adopted some of Nanci’s physical mannerisms as well as her dancing style, but she is clearly not ready to completely kiss goodbye to the social construction of normality. Compared to Nanci, she is still rather tame and obedient, interested in validating her own performance through her mastery of technical skill.
It remains to be seen whether one day Nikki will chose to leave it all behind and run away with the gypsies. But when she does, it won’t be to follow in Nanci’s footsteps, if Nanci’s footsteps can even be found…































